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Old 12-24-2018, 10:55 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by TheGreek! View Post
Here's another tip that I'm sure all of us can relate to:

DONT FORGET TO INSTALL THE LOWER HANDGUARD RETAINER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE GAS BLOCK!!
And the sling loop and pointing the right direction .... if T3 or Yugo
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:28 AM   #37
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That's a very nice job on modifying your press. But for those of us without machine shop tools to be able to do what you did to your press the way I fixed mine with the shims and tape is a fast and easy way to take the slop out of the press. Yeah, it looks hillbilly but it works, lol.

Necessity is the mother of invention...
Mine was the same way. One day I got bored and decided to upgrade my press. And yes having access to a machine shop comes in handy.

Lowes/Home Depot have sections of flat metal that can be taped or welded to the press to help remove slop. I used M3 heavy duty double sided tape to affix my metal strips to the press.
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:31 AM   #38
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And the sling loop and pointing the right direction .... if T3 or Yugo
I did this very thing on a Yugo. It was on the wrong side. Then on the right side but upside down. Third times a charm!
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:41 AM   #39
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You did better than me ... a least you put it on. Lol
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:16 PM   #40
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a tool i made to remove and install the rear sight.
 photo IMG_0841_zps12e5ccff.jpg
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:18 PM   #41
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This one is for installing the barrel. It is adjustable.
 photo IMG_0767.jpg
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Old 12-24-2018, 01:40 PM   #42
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First round out of a build always Like a Somali pirate.

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Old 12-24-2018, 02:00 PM   #43
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Before heat treat the receivers , i apply 2 coats of metallic paint.
It will keep the surface clean during the process,
Also have a jig, like a flat bender ,that i put the receiver in , it has an insert to keep it flat. So quenching is started on the inside first, that also helps keeping the outside pristine
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:15 PM   #44
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a tool i made to remove and install the rear sight.
I want to make one of these. How long is that bend down?
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:40 PM   #45
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its about 1/2" maybe a little more . After i bent it using heat i thinned the tong down a little so it would catch the spring in front . They work really well.
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:31 PM   #46
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First round out of a build always Like a Somali pirate.

Lol!

I just strap it to a sled and pull the trigger with a string. So I don't upset anyone by being unclear, by sled I mean a bench rest/vice and by string I mean twine.

I guess your method gets your face off the rifle, but I could still see the mag getting blown into your nose!
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:36 PM   #47
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Will a 6 ton shop press work?
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:18 PM   #48
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the recommended range is 12-20. if you are bending flats then 20 IMHO
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:20 PM   #49
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the recommended range is 12-20. if you are bending flats then 20 IMHO
Gotcha, thanks!
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Old 12-24-2018, 11:31 PM   #50
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I guess your method gets your face off the rifle, but I could still see the mag getting blown into your nose!
Negative you hold the base of the mag to keep hand as far away as possible

Do not forget ear protection
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Old 12-25-2018, 07:15 PM   #51
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Could you show that sight tool at work
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:22 PM   #52
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I made a barrel push back tool from a 3/8" socket extension ( iirc its about 14" long), a couple of pennies on the face of the chamber to keep it from marring when pressing the bbl.

in order to get the extension at the right angle (on the same plane with bbl) i used a cutoff wheel on angle grinder to cut a slot along the length of the extension in the area of it that contacts the ejector tab..

it still works as a socket extension also
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Old 12-26-2018, 05:07 PM   #53
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Thanks very much for all the great tips. I modified my AK Builder drilling jig by grinding indents into the bottom with a Dremel tool so I could use it for AK74 blanks with the trigger humps.
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:40 PM   #54
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Another tip, try to shoot for .001-.002 interference fit with the barrel and front trunnion. If it's more than that you can open up the hole in the trunnion with a brake cylinder hone.
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:26 AM   #55
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Little tip;

*A Yugo M70 lower handguard kinda helps keep an AKM barrel aligned when pressing it in with only the ejector relief and handguard retainer slot as a reference, as its longer.


*The little rubber condom tips that come on USA made barrels really help you not fuck up your threads when pressing a FSB with an appropriate sized deep socket.


*Frozen barrels press easier IMO
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:17 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by UFGATOR762 View Post
a tool i made to remove and install the rear sight.
 photo IMG_0841_zps12e5ccff.jpg
here is how they work
 photo IMG_0847_zps63489abd.jpg
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:58 AM   #57
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Thanks very much for the photos of your sight tool, will rry to make one.
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:23 AM   #58
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Make the bend so you have about 1/2". Thats all you need . Bought the pliers at HF , they were cheap.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:05 PM   #59
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I free up a hand during rivet crushing by placing in a vice. Not sure where I first saw it but it works good

Also painted channel on gauges to tell em apart quick
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:13 PM   #60
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Quote:
*The little rubber condom tips that come on USA made barrels really help you not fuck up your threads when pressing a FSB with an appropriate sized deep socket.
I haven't pressed a sight base on in quite some time. I take a punch that fits the muzzle device detent hole and tap them on. Works like a charm!


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Old 01-12-2019, 10:37 AM   #61
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I free up a hand during rivet crushing by placing in a vice. Not sure where I first saw it but it works good

Also painted channel on gauges to tell em apart quick

Thanks very much for the the rivet crusher tip, will have to try it.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:39 AM   #62
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Indexing or making sure you have the correct press tolerance. Sure wish I had known that on my first build.
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:40 PM   #63
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Where was this thread back in 05 when I started building? Oh yeah, 14 years in the future.
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:54 PM   #64
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Having a drill press is another easy way to remove the rear sights. You can use an old drill bit or a punch.

In the photo, I used an old drill bit. Reverse the bit so that the cutting end is in the chalk.


Once you got the drill bit in place, you can press the spring down and easily remove the rear sight.
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Old 01-12-2019, 01:01 PM   #65
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I never thought of using adjustable parallels. I just made a piece to do basically the same thing.





I really like both of these. Worst thing is I have a set of parallels that will fit and i never even occurred to me to try it.

I've never gotten a center support right the first time. I ended up just ordering a half dozen extras for the occasion I need to redo.
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Old 01-12-2019, 02:02 PM   #66
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Having a drill press is another easy way to remove the rear sights. You can use an old drill bit or a punch.

In the photo, I used an old drill bit. Reverse the bit so that the cutting end is in the chalk.


Once you got the drill bit in place, you can press the spring down and easily remove the rear sight.
Great idea.
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Old 01-12-2019, 02:04 PM   #67
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I really like both of these. Worst thing is I have a set of parallels that will fit and i never even occurred to me to try it.

I've never gotten a center support right the first time. I ended up just ordering a half dozen extras for the occasion I need to redo.
I use a oak block .
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:33 AM   #68
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a simple small tack weld on the inside will keep the center support aligned if it is a correct one with the flat cut.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:23 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandfocus2 View Post
Having a drill press is another easy way to remove the rear sights. You can use an old drill bit or a punch.

In the photo, I used an old drill bit. Reverse the bit so that the cutting end is in the chalk.


Once you got the drill bit in place, you can press the spring down and easily remove the rear sight.
I gotta remember this one, thanks.
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Old 01-14-2019, 07:56 PM   #70
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Another tip, try to shoot for .001-.002 interference fit with the barrel and front trunnion. If it's more than that you can open up the hole in the trunnion with a brake cylinder hone.
Hone the trunnion or sand down the barrel, there are ways to spin the barrel on a drill press and use Emory cloth to bring it down.
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